When the Outback Turns Green: A Luxe Adventure Through Longreach and Winton

After recent rains, the red centre has gone rogue and transformed into something unexpectedly lush. With visitors staying away, mistakenly thinking the region’s still recovering, it feels like I’ve got this verdant Outback wonderland all to myself.
Flying into Longreach, so far from the city, it’s hard to imagine that dotted amongst this ancient landscape are special places to take a slow breath and truly connect with the magnificence of the outback. 
However, due to the ingenuity of creative entrepreneurs who have taken the opportunity to create modern living spaces of peace and warm hospitality, you have a host of accommodation and eating options.  One of these is glamping at Mitchell Grass Retreat. This is an award-winning eco-glamping gem just minutes from town.
“This isn’t camping—it’s comfort with capital C. Think marshmallows by the firepit, a king-size bed, complimentary port, and a deep soaking tub with scented salts and a panoramic sunset view. Bliss.”
In the morning, the sound of birdsong beneath the big sky is an excellent accompaniment to a breakfast basket brimming with gourmet treats and plunger coffee, enjoyed on the private deck.
No, dinner wasn’t over the campfire. But we did enjoy what may now be considered a quintessentially Australian meal—pizza and pasta with wine. The pizza is woodfired, the pasta fresh, and the wine list is seriously impressive. This was all prepared at The Italian Restaurant on Eagle Street, where Roberto and Rebecca Lancellotti serve up a little slice of Melbourne in the middle of the Outback. 
One way to see and appreciate the enormity and beauty of this country is to go up, up, and away with Queensland Helicopters for a scenic flight across a patchwork of surprising green. We land at Darr River Downs Station, where Cam, Fiona and Paul welcome me for a wander through their historic sheep and cattle property. There are original sandstone buildings, fascinating outback relics, and the kind of home-baked morning tea that dreams are made of.
By early afternoon, Vicki Jones from Red Dirt Tours collected me for the road trip to Winton. The landscapes shift from sweeping plains to dramatic mesas as we approach Rangelands Outback Camp, a luxe 16 adults-only escape perched above dinosaur country. Sunset drinks and a gourmet cheese platter greet me on the deck, followed by a showstopping Chef’s Table dinner by the acclaimed Philip Johnson in the elegant Mahal dining tent.
The days that follow bring fossil discoveries at Lark Quarry, breathtaking scenic flights, and the magical Spirit of Evolution projection at Rangelands Rifts—complete with champagne at sunset. I spend my final morning exploring Winton’s charming streets, ducking into the Waltzing Matilda Centre, the opal shops, and the open-air Royal Theatre, still run by the Evert family since 1937.
Turns out, the Outback isn’t just surviving—it’s thriving. And I’m here for every glorious, green moment.